Built radiator shrouding

"nafsucof" (galinskiomatic)
07/23/2017 at 21:33 • Filed to: None

Since the factory aero on my car was tuned for mpg I think, I previously cut out the holes behind the grill to let more air to radiator. It worked, but didn’t. Since there was no shrouding left after I deleted the factory active grill shutters, the air passing through the grill was able to go around the radiator and out the fronts of the wheel wells.

So I made this shroud for my radiator, oil cooler and intercooler today using kydex thermoplastic.

Oh this is a focus st.

DISCUSSION (17)

Mini Guy- Now has a 4Runner > nafsucof
07/23/2017 at 21:45

Nice danger jet intake sign

nafsucof > Mini Guy- Now has a 4Runner
07/23/2017 at 21:49

Thanks I want the big red arrow with the same phrase

Die-Trying > nafsucof
07/23/2017 at 22:24

that is some REAL nice work.........

HFV has no HFV. But somehow has 2 motorcycles > nafsucof
07/23/2017 at 23:03

That’s some good DIYing right there

R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet > nafsucof
07/23/2017 at 23:27

+1 for NOT STEP decal as well. Is that the levels smaller sized FMIC?

Self-installed? Skill level/time level?

I have my Mountune FMIC and upgraded charge pipes sitting in my office as well as a CObb carbon ram air scoop. But I am terrified to remove the bumper because fists of meat and body without finesse.

sony1492 > nafsucof
07/23/2017 at 23:45

That looks great, I’ve been thinking of doing this to my car. How did you cut the plastic?

His Stigness > nafsucof
07/24/2017 at 01:00

Lol: “100% stock.”

nafsucof > R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet
07/24/2017 at 06:52

Everything is self installed. Skill level: medium. Time: all day. Those charge pipes and intercooler could be done relatively easy. The bumper isnt tough to remove, just have to take your time and the intercooler is an easy job if you are doing the charge pipes at the same time. That scoop would be done then too. Bumper is off in twenty minutes with ramps.

If you aren’t tracking the car there is no need for this mod though. I’ve seen about 260° oil and 250° water and that was hot enough for me in track. This should further reduce temps another 20-30°.

nafsucof > sony1492
07/24/2017 at 06:54

Used .08 kydex. 2-3 scores and it snaps on the cut every easily, but is flexible enough for managing smaller spaces. Tin snips went right through the stuff. Spent Friday afternoon mocking this up. Did whole job on Sunday in about 4-5 hrs.

nafsucof > HFV has no HFV. But somehow has 2 motorcycles
07/24/2017 at 06:55

Yeah no one was going to make it for me and my car needed help on track so hopefully this does it.

nafsucof > Die-Trying
07/24/2017 at 06:56

Thanks, should help me stay cool on track. I’ll know on thursday.

R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet > nafsucof
07/24/2017 at 08:41

I’m in Nashville, TN 90° + humidity and I think DD heatsoak is affecting the air conditioning.

Womp womp I only have 1 pair of jack stands and will have to use the factory jack. Hopefully birthday and Christmas will change that. Until then I have “Dadding” to do so no fun stuff until later on this year probably.

I feel more comfortable doing brakes and suspension components, personally.

uofime-2 > nafsucof
07/24/2017 at 10:39

Looks like some solid CAD work.

Why are you blocking some of the exchanger fins on the FMIC?

Have you upgraded the radiator core?

Are you still running coolant or straight water + waterwetter?

nafsucof > uofime-2
07/24/2017 at 10:56

The intercooler core has proven to resist temp change pretty well and I’m banking on that and the increased flow from the shrouding to help keep those temps in check. It was easy to incorporate the box into the intercooler design. There is really only a small portion of fins blocked from direct air flow. Also, I will be running water methanol injection 50:50 to keep temps down too!

I haven’t upgraded the radiator. I’d like to and have a good in on a cheap mishimoto upgrade. I’d like to wait until the hood vents are installed and the finished tune for the new turbo before I know whether I really need it or not.

I run ford coolant and water wetter.

uofime-2 > nafsucof
07/24/2017 at 12:28

How is you WMI set-up?

What are your fail safes and how are they integrated in to the engine management?

Those systems make me really nervous in a track setting.

I have a way less extreme set up on my WRX, only 300whp, and I run a koyorad that helped massively. I was pushing 230 (much more and Subarus like to blow head gaskets) before and now only go over 200 when coming off track for “cool down” because speed works far better than fans.

nafsucof > uofime-2
07/24/2017 at 13:47

So it’s just in the middle of the install but not spraying yet because I’m doing a tune without wmi and with. 350/350 vs 400/400 hp/tq. My first etune will be on 93, then I’ll have a switchable tune for the wmi.

The only failsafe I’ll be running will be me checking after each lapping session lol. I can see it from my rear view mirror. The plan is to use it as maintenance on track so the car can advance timing and run richer than not. With the Ap3 I can switch maps on the fly. The aem failsafe integration has a gauge showing wmi pressure and I believe you tag a boost line for the waste gate or bov for protection? But I haven’t gotten that far in my build to know yet ;).

I agree and would rather have a safe tune for without it. I would like to be able to top it off for time trials though!

Yeah I’ve heard good things about koyo. Nothing for my platform yet though. This setup should greatly help recovery time. I also think the hood vents will let all the heat out and provide great heat protection.

Those Subaru are tough to keep cool because of the top mount pressurizing the engine bay behind the radiator.

My car is about 15-20 cooler coolant and oil cruising at 75-80 now with ac on. Car stays below 180 on the street, down from the 200°ish norm.

uofime-2 > nafsucof
07/25/2017 at 10:49

One “normal” integration of failsafe for WMI is to have a flow or pressure warning that shorts the boost controller which will cut you to wastegate boost pressure and throw a MIL on your dash.

If you’re using an accessport your tuner might be able to use Cobb Custom Features (which is normally used with an ethanol content sensor for flex fuel) to read that fail safe signal and switch to your safe map.

That flow/pressure warning is important on track because sloshing and fuel(WM) starvation is a real issue you have to worry about.

I get fuel cut if I go below half a tank on long hard right turns, but the ECU has a pressure sensor so it can cut the throttle before the engine can hurt itself. (terrifying the first time it happened)